Log Book
June 2008
June 2008
La Paz and Trip to Cabo

On May 29 we drove to Cabo.  Found a great little bed-and-breakfast in the middle of
Cabo, near the port captain’s office, called The Mexico Inn.  Only about $55 per night, with
A/C and DVD players in each room, beautifully decorated, comfortable bed, excellent DVD
library, nice continental breakfast.  No swimming pool, but hey, we were only spending two
nights, no need for a resort!  May 30 we dropped by the US Consulate office in Cabo to
have the boat documentation papers notarized to change title to Sam and Susie joint.  We
also did some shopping at Wal Mart, Costco, Sam’s Club and City Club.  May 31 morning
we returned for refrigerator items and iced everything down in a large cooler. May 31
afternoon we picked up Hunter at the airport.  We started back towards La Paz, hoping to
spend the night in Los Barrilas, but alas there were no available accommodations –
everything was full.  We decided to drive all the way back to La Paz, even though that
meant a very long day for everyone.  In San Antonio we hit empty on the gas gauge and
stopped for fuel.  The pumps were locked up and would not re-open until the next
morning.  We thought we were going to have to spend the night in the car with Hunter and
all our goodies (the car was packed full).  A local Mexican in a pickup truck also stopped at
the gas station to top off his tanks, and amazingly was able to help us out.  Between our
poor Spanish and his limited English, we were able to determine that he had enough gas
to get to La Paz and enough extra in his spare tank to share with us.  So he siphoned into
our tank and we paid him $20 US for about 5 gallons of gas, and gave him a 3-pack of
chocolate bars from Trader Joe’s (they came with Hunter’s luggage) and a cold soda from
the cooler.  Then we made it back to La Paz about 10 PM, stopped at MacDonald’s for late
dinner and let Hunter run off a little long cooped-up energy in the play area.  We finally got
into bed around midnight Saturday night back on Catch The Wind.

Sunday we spent unloading the car and loading the boat with all the provisions we got in
Cabo and that Hunter brought in his luggage (things like good chocolate and licorice).  We
also drove out to Playa Tecalote so Hunter could swim at the beach, but the water was a
little cool and he mostly played in the sand at the edge of the water.  Monday we stowed
more stuff and did a final load of laundry.  Tuesday we finally pulled away from the dock
about 2 PM and headed down the La Paz channel – with the sunshade still up – to anchor
at Bahia Ballandra.  In only a few minutes, Hunter was swimming in the bay in his life
jacket.  The first night back on the hook was a little rolly and early AM the wind came up
and Sam had to take down the sunshade.  

Caleta Partida

Wednesday morning June 4 we left Ballandra for Caleta Partida and stayed two nights.  
Hunter and Sam sailed the Walker Bay around the anchorage and visited with some of the
other boats anchored there.  Hunter swam.  The second morning we shared blueberry
sourdough pancakes with Reel Joy and oops – once again – Sam cooked it all and forgot
to save out starter for the next time.  Oh well, have to get some more starter from another
boat somewhere along the way.

Isla San Francisco

The night of June 6 we anchored at “The Hook” on Isla San Francisco.  On the way we
stopped at Los Islotes for Hunter to view the sea lions. It was a nice sail part of the day.  
We found friends Dan and Barbara from Bardan already here.  Hunter decided to jump in
(with life jacket) and swim over to their boat to say hello, then he swam back.  That night
was a little uncomfortable, with wind and swells.  The next day we moved to the north side
of the island, between a shell beach and Los Coyotes (a small group of rocks housing a
few families of fishermen).  There were jumping manta rays in this anchorage and Hunter
especially enjoyed watching them.  We went to the beach with Bardan, with Hunter
swimming part of the way and riding in the dinghy some of the way.  He went crazy finding
shells and brought a large container back to the boat.  Grandma will help him sort out the
neat ones and discard the others.  Hunter did a little “snorkeling” on Grandma’s boogie
board with the view port, accompanied by Dan and Sam.  We spent a more comfortable
night on the hook with protection from the southerly winds and left the next morning to
continue north.

Los Gatos

June 8 we were able to sail much of the way to Los Gatos, even used the asymmetrical
spinnaker part of the way.  This is our second time in this anchorage and this time it was
much better.  We anchored near Bardan and Hunter immediately swam over to their boat
again.  Dan invited him to go snorkeling again, so Hunter took off with the boogie board.  
Sam sailed over in the dinghy later to pick them up off the beach.  The water is still a little
cool and while we are not concerned about Hunter swimming too much, sometimes he gets
too cold – he has absolutely no body fat – and we don’t want him getting hypothermic.  We
spent an enjoyable night with comfortable breezes.  

Agua Verde

June 9 we sailed to Agua Verde, one of our favorite anchorages in the Sea of Cortez.  We
buddy-boated up with Bardan again.  Sailed part of the way, motored some.  Not too long
after the hook was set, Hunter was once again swimming over to Bardan.  Sam sailed in
the dinghy and Hunter swam, this time getting even braver and jumping off the boat
instead of climbing down the ladder.  The next day, after putting up the sunshade, Sam
took Susie and Hunter over to the little beach, where they did some swimming and some
shell collecting.  We played Mexican Train with Hunter that evening on the boat.  

Puerto Escondido

We left Agua Verde on June 11 – sailed off the hook and sailed all the way to Puerto
Escondido – didn’t start the motor until we entered the harbor.  There seemed to be
sufficient room in “The Ellipse” to drop the hook, next to Emerald Star and A Cappella.  We
made arrangements with Cornelia on A Cappella to get some sourdough starter.  Ray from
Emerald Star and Ed from A Cappella helped Sam get the sailmail working again – turned
out to be part operator error and part bad USB/com port assignment.  The weather is still
nice, most evenings we have cooling breezes.  June 12 Susie did laundry and Sam and
Hunter ran some errands in the morning.  In the afternoon, we joined Ed and Cornelia for a
game of bridge at Tripui Trailer Park, while Hunter swam in their beautiful pool FOR 6
HOURS.  Talk about being pruny!  Hunter made some friends at the pool and Sam and
Susie enjoyed some adult company and conversation.  June 13 we went back to Tripui for
Minnesota Canasta (a card game similar to Baja Rummy) and more swimming for Hunter.  
And June 14 we mostly hung around the boat and rested – Hunter recovered from too
much sun and pool, Susie downloaded pictures and worked on this update, Sam ran the
watermaker and visited with friends who came in today on Windward Bound.  Hunter got to
drive the dinghy with the outboard.  And his friend Bobbie from Bardan gave him a big
yellow ball to play with the next time he swims.  Of course, that meant the minute he got
back to the boat he and Sam had to play catch inside the boat.  Watch out for those
dishes!  On June 15 we attended the morning brunch and later Hunter made a friend at
the pool – Chloe – and her grandparents invited us for dinner on their large air-
conditioned power boat Delia – Hunter really knows how to live!  

Puerto Ballandra

June 16 we sailed and motored over to Puerto Ballandra on Isla Carmen.  On the 6th
attempt to finally get the hook set – there is a narrow shallow shelf around the edge of the
beach and we finally had to drop in deeper water near the middle.  Thankfully we spent
money on that electric windlass before we left to go cruising.  The next day in the morning
Sam and Hunter went ashore to collect shells and in the afternoon while Hunter watched a
DVD, Ed and Cornelia from A Cappella came over and played bridge with Sam and Susie.  

Isla Coronado

This is usually a beautiful anchorage, but with the numerous bees that kept coming aboard
and the horrible stench from thousands of dead Humboldt squid washed up on the beach,
we decided to spend just one night here on June 18.  The water was too nasty for
swimming.  We put up the hatch screens against the bees and played Mexican Train all
afternoon.

San Juanico

June 19 we mostly motored up to San Juanico.  On the way we checked out the large
fishing boats from Mazatlan – they were catching and processing Humboldt squid.  The
wind came up right when we set the anchor – of course – and it was to warm that we
decided to anchor right into the wind and catch the cool breezes.  It was really rolly but we
enjoyed the cool afternoon by playing Mexican Train.  Later in the day we moved between
Moon Rock and Prudential Rock where there was less swell but still a nice breeze.  The
nights here were fairly comfortable, but during the days this was still a very rolly anchorage
when the breezes came up.  Sam and Hunter went ashore one day with two CD disks
decorated by Susie and Hunter, to hang on the tree at the cruiser’s shrine on the beach;
they also found a lot of dead squid on the beach and floating in the water.  Most of the
time we were the only boat in this anchorage, but one afternoon a funny-looking home-
made pontoon boat joined us for an overnight.  Sam and Hunter went swimming one day
and visited with some snorkelers staying in one of the houses above the beach.  One
evening we watched a DVD.  

La Ramada

On June 22 we got a radio call from friends Jim and Sheilagh on Aurora – they were on the
hill overlooking the anchorage at San Juanico and saw our boat.  We asked where they
were hooked and they said it was really nice and calm around the corner to the north at La
Ramada.  So we pulled the hook and moved – only took about 20 minutes.  It was nice,
after 3 days alone and rolling around all day, to have calm waters but still some breezes.  
Hunter swam some.  We went to Aurora and played Mexican Train and ate popcorn.  One
morning Hunter and Sam hiked up the hill that overlooks San Juanico (where we were the
day before).  We went to a dinghy raft up one evening for snacks with crews from all the
boats here – A Cappella, Aurora, Tender Spirit and Windward Bound.  And Hunter became
lethargic and was discovered with a temperature of 102, but he seemed to have no other
symptoms.  Grandma Susie couldn’t figure out why he seemed so sick.

Loreto

June 24 we decided to head back towards La Paz and perhaps some medical care for
Hunter.  As we got close to Loreto the cell phone worked again and we were able to reach
Hunter’s mother (Susie’s daughter Jennifer) and she suggested Hunter might have an ear
infection.  We anchored directly off the panga harbor at Loreto and rowed ashore to seek
medical care.  We taxied to one clinic and it was the wrong place; an employee leaving
work took us to the new hospital but they had no doctors yet on staff; we taxied over to the
old hospital and there Hunter was diagnosed with an ear infection and swollen tonsils.  
Antibiotics were prescribed and we returned to the boat.  That night Hunter vomited up the
meds so we went back again the next morning to the old hospital for a different type of
meds.  While ashore we picked up a few groceries, then went back to the boat and pulled
anchor.

Puerto Escondido

On June 25 we arrived back in the afternoon at Puerto Escondido.  We decided to take a
slip at the dock for one night, then move the next day over to a mooring ball, and stay in
the area about a week until we were sure Hunter was on the mend.  He seemed to be
doing better and the fever was going down.  We played some Mexican Train with Diane
from Emerald Star and let Hunter swim in the lap pool at Singlar most days.  One evening
we went to dinner at Tripui Trailer Park to celebrate their 20th anniversary, Carlo on
Mango Mambo gave us a ride up there and it turned out the dinner was free.  Hunter
seemed to be doing better, no more fever, then on June 28 he started having some GI
trouble and we assumed it was from the anti-biotics.  On June 29 the situation was getting
worse, so we borrowed Carlo’s car and drove into Loreto late Saturday night, to the old
hospital, and Hunter was diagnosed with amebic diarrhea.  More medication – pills to crush
and mix with maple syrup and feed to Hunter with a spoon, chased by a square of Trader
Joe milk chocolate to get the horrible taste out of his mouth.  We had to drive back to
Loreto again Sunday morning because the farmacia was closed the night before and the
clinic gave us only enough meds to get through one day.  By Monday he was feeling better
and we started back towards La Paz.  

Passage back to La Paz

Caught a good weather window on July 1 and made fast tracks south.  We spent the first
night in Agua Verde, where friends John and Bridget on Sailsoon stayed an extra day to
visit with us.  We shared an impromptu dinner together on Catch The Wind and Hunter
showed his shell collection to Bridget.  After a day of motoring into the wind, we tried to
drop the hook at Nopolo and couldn’t get a good anchor set because of all the sea grass,
so we went on another 30 minutes to the north side of San Evaristo for a calm night July
2.  And on July 3 we FINALLY saw some wild life.  We spotted what we think were pilot
whales – several of them – surfacing and spouting near the boat.  And dolphins as well,
jumping up right next to the boat.  Hunter was thrilled with this display and we were glad he
got to see it, because up to this day, there had been a sad lack of dolphin and whale
sightings.  We planned to motor all the way back to La Paz, but an unusual southeast wind
built up in the afternoon to near gale conditions (steady 30 to 35 knots and gusting to 40
knots) so we took shelter behind Isla Ballena in only 20 to 25 knots at about 3:30 PM and
thought it was great!  We played Mexican Train all afternoon and slept well.  On July 4 we
sailed to Marina Costa Baja and checked in just after noon.  We took advantage of the
amenities at this lovely resort and had a great afternoon playing in the pool.  Hunter spent
most of his days until July 10 hanging out on other boats in the mornings – Frog and
Gypseas Palace – and at the pool in the afternoons.  Watching other people do boring
things was much better than watching US do boring things, like getting the boat ready to
“put to bed” for the summer hurricane season.  Hunter finished up all his medication on
July 9 and flew home on July 10 and said he would like to come back next year.  And he
will be welcome!  Gramma Susie and Sam certainly enjoyed his visit. Aside from Hunter’s
illness (and the awful way we had to administer the medication) we all had a great time
together.  It was Hunter’s very first time in the Sea of Cortez and hopefully he will
remember it for years.
Photos for
June 2008