Log Book
March 2008
March 2008
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| March 2008 |
La Paz
March 01 - 11
On March 1st our friend Rene Canham (whom we met through Single Sailors Association
in the San Francisco Bay Area) flew into La Paz for a short visit “to get warm.” We
introduced her to the good food at Rancho Viejo and departed on Sunday for Isla Espiritu
Santo and Isla Partida. There was no wind so it was a motor boat ride all the way to Caleta
Partida – where of course the wind started blowing 15 knots as we headed into the
anchorage. We found Solla Sollew anchored there; Michel and Ellen brought over a bottle
of wine to share that evening after dinner. During the night a nasty norther started
blowing – we clocked up to 27 knots. So Monday was spent on board – reading, resting,
learning to play hearts and cooking up a big pot of beans (maybe that wasn’t the best idea
with 3 people cooped up together on a 39 foot boat). But we had a lot of laughs. Tuesday
morning the wind had calmed, so Sam rowed both the women ashore where we found the
channel to the other side of the island (but we decided not to go all the way through since
we were unsure of the currents and did not have the outboard). We walked along the
beach and met a local fisherman who tried to explain when Rene asked why there were so
many dead puffer fish about, but we were none the wiser after the conversation. Solla
Sollew towed us back to the boat for lunch (beans again) and then we made ready to
depart for La Paz. It was a nice westerly breeze for a decent sail back into the harbor; we
finally started the engine so that we could make our way to the anchorage before it got
completely dark. After a good night’s sleep, on Wednesday morning we took Rene on a
quick walking tour down the beach along the malecon and up to the central mercado, then
took the bus back Marina de La Paz where she got in a taxi for her trip back to the airport.
We got to know Rene a little better, she got to sail the Cal 39 (one of her goals for the trip)
at least one day, and we got 2 jars of Korma sauce (from Trader Joe’s) and 2 jars of
Lingonberry jam (from Ikea – thanks Scott).
March 6th we moved the boat to Marina de La Paz for a few days. Susie played Mexican
Train and began the process of learning to play Bridge. We ordered drop down shade
panels for the bimini (finally) from Snug Harbor Sails. We had some fitted sheets made for
the V-berth. Susie got new glasses. We discovered great food at Tres Virgenes
restaurant. Snug Harbor Sails modified the sail cover to fit around the boom brake which
we installed in place of the boom vang. Sam worked some on the anti-siphon loop for the
shower drain and the wiring for the cabin lights and somehow fixed the nav lights that
failed on our last overnight passage.
Mazatlan
March 13 – 22
On March 11th we sailed/motored back over to Mazatlan, to further cannibalize our old
Perkins 4.108, and in particular to get the old plumbing part necessary to heat the hot
water heater while running the engine. We arrived on March 13th in the morning, after a
pretty uneventful trip – although the nav lights blew another fuse. Total Yacht Works did
the work we required, including a new temp gauge. Susie washed the boat curtains. We
met up again with friends John and Gaye from Maestra (fellow Baja Ha Ha-ers 2005) and
shared a meal in their condo at the marina and they told us about their trip to Central
America and The Galapagos. We sold some stuff at the marina swap meet and bought a
Brother label maker (and still came out ahead in coconuts). We also purchased a multi-
directional wind scoop from Fair Winds. Susie played cards and train.
La Paz
March 24 – 31
We sailed some, but mostly motored, back to La Paz, leaving Mazatlan on March 22nd.
This was an uncomfortable trip for Susie, with almost no wind coming from the wrong
direction and sloppy seas and the boat pitching. Susie got seasick for the first time in a
long while. So we were both a bit tired and grumpy when we got to the end of the La Paz
channel and got ready to drop the anchor. Now starts the comedy routine.
Sam had the main up the entire way to diminish the rolling. Getting close to the anchorage
he went forward to drop the main into the lazy jacks and Susie shifted into neutral. Since
the apparent wind was about 1.5 knots from 000 we didn't even have to change course or
head-to-wind. The top 2/3 of the sail came down - to the lower reef clew. The leech line
had come out of the sail below the lower reef clew and wrapped around the topping lift.
Sam got it unwrapped and let the sail the rest of the way down just as we got to where we
were going to anchor. So Sam went up to the bow and stepped on the "down" button to
lower the anchor. The windlass didn't work. He hustled into the boat to change the
switch. And back to the bow. Still the windlass didn't work. So he rushed back inside and
changed the circuit breaker. And back to the bow. Still no power to the windlass. By this
time we're drifting towards a breakwater. Susie tries to shift into forward to get away from
the breakwater. It wouldn't shift. Sam ran back to the helm and forced the shift lever. The
lever moved, but the transmission stayed in neutral. We were getting closer to the
breakwater. Sam went back to the mast and raised what sail he could. With lazy jacks one
really can't raise the main very much if one can't steer the boat so that the boom is in line
with the wind. But it was enough that in the now 4-knot wind we could get some steerage
underway. And at that slow speed Susie steered away from the breakwater and around
the anchored boats while Sam found the wrench to loosen the clutch on the windlass
gypsy (the manual override function) to let the anchor go down of its own weight. When
the clutch was loose the gypsy still wouldn't freewheel – too much salt build-up from not
using that feature in the last 2 1/2 years. With light wind, partial sail, no current and an
empty fuel dock at Marina de la Paz, we sailed right up to the side-tie just like we knew
what we were doing and had it planned that way. They had space for a few days so we
could make repairs. We had a long night’s sleep and started repairs the next day.
On the 1st full day back – after completely emptying the lazarette including the 40-pound
emergency anchor - Sam found there was nothing wrong with the transmission, but the
Morse cable was rusted. We were able to replace it at Lopez Marine. But there was yet
another problem - where the old Morse cable was held by the arm in the binnacle the set
screw had broken. So Sam took the old cable and arm to a local machinist to have him
remove the stainless steel set screw without damaging the cast aluminum arm. On the 2nd
day, while the machinist was doing his work, Sam determined that he had tried only three
of the four possible switch-breaker combinations for the anchor windlass and the fourth
way was correct – oops – operator error. Sam was also able to free up the gypsy with
AeroKroil. Our 3rd day Sam installed the new Morse cable - and the wire that feeds the
compass light fell out of the binnacle while he was re-attaching the cable arm. He
borrowed a snake to reinstall the wire which he had to pull completely out to attach to the
snake. And this was a good thing, because he found some severe chafing in the
insulation and exposed wires. This may be the reason why the nav light fuse would blow
out when we made overnight passages. He ran a new wire and we will find out later if this
resolves the issue. We certainly hope so, because Sam would like to stop looking for the
problem. And on the 4th day – after we put everything back into the lazarette and pulled
out of the marina under power and dropped the hook – Sam rested.
Most of you have probably heard the definition of cruising, “working on your boat in exotic
places.” Sometimes that is truer than others. But life is good. We’re having a good and
warm time. The new Simrad Robertson below-deck autopilot works very well and it is
stronger than the old belt-to-wheel Autohelm. The solar panels keep the batteries
charged up, the watermaker running and Susie’s cokes in the refrigerator cold. We have
enough water to shower every day on the boat. We have shade over most of the boat.
And there are enough little things to fix that Sam will never be bored.
Our plans for the summer have changed.
Hunter, Susie’s grandson, will still be spending the month of June with us in the Sea of
Cortez. We had previously planned to take the boat back to Marina Mazatlan mid-July and
leave it there for the summer, while we traveled inland to higher elevations and somewhat
cooler climates. But being true cruisers, we are flexible and plans are subject to change.
Susie met someone playing Bridge who needed a house-sitter here in La Paz area for the
summer and we decided to take the opportunity. So we will investigate leaving the boat in
Marina Costa Baja (the safest harbor in La Paz if there is a hurricane) and spending our
time in a country palapa-style home located in El Sargento (about 30 minutes drive from
La Paz and on the Ceralvo Channel) enjoying air-conditioning, high speed internet access,
Canadian sattelite television and the use of a car. Our first summer in La Paz!
Sea of Cortez Race Week has been re-instituted and will start April 1.
On March 31st in the afternoon there was a meeting in the outdoor patio at Ciao Molino in
La Paz with Richard Spindler of Latitude 38 and the crew of several boats participating in
Race Week. We were there – Susie playing Mexican Train, also in the patio, and Sam
checking email inside. Susie mentioned to Sam that Richard was outside if he wanted to
say hello. Sam went out to talk with Richard while Susie checked email, and 10 minutes
later he came back inside with two tee-shirts and the announcement that he had signed up
to participate. So we radioed and/or telephoned the stainless steel man, the carpenter
and the canvas worker and put them off a week; decided to put off renewing our FM3’s
because they aren’t really due until April 23rd; and put away the dinghy in preparation to
“race” to Caleta Partida the next day. Look at next month’s update for a report of that
event!
March 01 - 11
On March 1st our friend Rene Canham (whom we met through Single Sailors Association
in the San Francisco Bay Area) flew into La Paz for a short visit “to get warm.” We
introduced her to the good food at Rancho Viejo and departed on Sunday for Isla Espiritu
Santo and Isla Partida. There was no wind so it was a motor boat ride all the way to Caleta
Partida – where of course the wind started blowing 15 knots as we headed into the
anchorage. We found Solla Sollew anchored there; Michel and Ellen brought over a bottle
of wine to share that evening after dinner. During the night a nasty norther started
blowing – we clocked up to 27 knots. So Monday was spent on board – reading, resting,
learning to play hearts and cooking up a big pot of beans (maybe that wasn’t the best idea
with 3 people cooped up together on a 39 foot boat). But we had a lot of laughs. Tuesday
morning the wind had calmed, so Sam rowed both the women ashore where we found the
channel to the other side of the island (but we decided not to go all the way through since
we were unsure of the currents and did not have the outboard). We walked along the
beach and met a local fisherman who tried to explain when Rene asked why there were so
many dead puffer fish about, but we were none the wiser after the conversation. Solla
Sollew towed us back to the boat for lunch (beans again) and then we made ready to
depart for La Paz. It was a nice westerly breeze for a decent sail back into the harbor; we
finally started the engine so that we could make our way to the anchorage before it got
completely dark. After a good night’s sleep, on Wednesday morning we took Rene on a
quick walking tour down the beach along the malecon and up to the central mercado, then
took the bus back Marina de La Paz where she got in a taxi for her trip back to the airport.
We got to know Rene a little better, she got to sail the Cal 39 (one of her goals for the trip)
at least one day, and we got 2 jars of Korma sauce (from Trader Joe’s) and 2 jars of
Lingonberry jam (from Ikea – thanks Scott).
March 6th we moved the boat to Marina de La Paz for a few days. Susie played Mexican
Train and began the process of learning to play Bridge. We ordered drop down shade
panels for the bimini (finally) from Snug Harbor Sails. We had some fitted sheets made for
the V-berth. Susie got new glasses. We discovered great food at Tres Virgenes
restaurant. Snug Harbor Sails modified the sail cover to fit around the boom brake which
we installed in place of the boom vang. Sam worked some on the anti-siphon loop for the
shower drain and the wiring for the cabin lights and somehow fixed the nav lights that
failed on our last overnight passage.
Mazatlan
March 13 – 22
On March 11th we sailed/motored back over to Mazatlan, to further cannibalize our old
Perkins 4.108, and in particular to get the old plumbing part necessary to heat the hot
water heater while running the engine. We arrived on March 13th in the morning, after a
pretty uneventful trip – although the nav lights blew another fuse. Total Yacht Works did
the work we required, including a new temp gauge. Susie washed the boat curtains. We
met up again with friends John and Gaye from Maestra (fellow Baja Ha Ha-ers 2005) and
shared a meal in their condo at the marina and they told us about their trip to Central
America and The Galapagos. We sold some stuff at the marina swap meet and bought a
Brother label maker (and still came out ahead in coconuts). We also purchased a multi-
directional wind scoop from Fair Winds. Susie played cards and train.
La Paz
March 24 – 31
We sailed some, but mostly motored, back to La Paz, leaving Mazatlan on March 22nd.
This was an uncomfortable trip for Susie, with almost no wind coming from the wrong
direction and sloppy seas and the boat pitching. Susie got seasick for the first time in a
long while. So we were both a bit tired and grumpy when we got to the end of the La Paz
channel and got ready to drop the anchor. Now starts the comedy routine.
Sam had the main up the entire way to diminish the rolling. Getting close to the anchorage
he went forward to drop the main into the lazy jacks and Susie shifted into neutral. Since
the apparent wind was about 1.5 knots from 000 we didn't even have to change course or
head-to-wind. The top 2/3 of the sail came down - to the lower reef clew. The leech line
had come out of the sail below the lower reef clew and wrapped around the topping lift.
Sam got it unwrapped and let the sail the rest of the way down just as we got to where we
were going to anchor. So Sam went up to the bow and stepped on the "down" button to
lower the anchor. The windlass didn't work. He hustled into the boat to change the
switch. And back to the bow. Still the windlass didn't work. So he rushed back inside and
changed the circuit breaker. And back to the bow. Still no power to the windlass. By this
time we're drifting towards a breakwater. Susie tries to shift into forward to get away from
the breakwater. It wouldn't shift. Sam ran back to the helm and forced the shift lever. The
lever moved, but the transmission stayed in neutral. We were getting closer to the
breakwater. Sam went back to the mast and raised what sail he could. With lazy jacks one
really can't raise the main very much if one can't steer the boat so that the boom is in line
with the wind. But it was enough that in the now 4-knot wind we could get some steerage
underway. And at that slow speed Susie steered away from the breakwater and around
the anchored boats while Sam found the wrench to loosen the clutch on the windlass
gypsy (the manual override function) to let the anchor go down of its own weight. When
the clutch was loose the gypsy still wouldn't freewheel – too much salt build-up from not
using that feature in the last 2 1/2 years. With light wind, partial sail, no current and an
empty fuel dock at Marina de la Paz, we sailed right up to the side-tie just like we knew
what we were doing and had it planned that way. They had space for a few days so we
could make repairs. We had a long night’s sleep and started repairs the next day.
On the 1st full day back – after completely emptying the lazarette including the 40-pound
emergency anchor - Sam found there was nothing wrong with the transmission, but the
Morse cable was rusted. We were able to replace it at Lopez Marine. But there was yet
another problem - where the old Morse cable was held by the arm in the binnacle the set
screw had broken. So Sam took the old cable and arm to a local machinist to have him
remove the stainless steel set screw without damaging the cast aluminum arm. On the 2nd
day, while the machinist was doing his work, Sam determined that he had tried only three
of the four possible switch-breaker combinations for the anchor windlass and the fourth
way was correct – oops – operator error. Sam was also able to free up the gypsy with
AeroKroil. Our 3rd day Sam installed the new Morse cable - and the wire that feeds the
compass light fell out of the binnacle while he was re-attaching the cable arm. He
borrowed a snake to reinstall the wire which he had to pull completely out to attach to the
snake. And this was a good thing, because he found some severe chafing in the
insulation and exposed wires. This may be the reason why the nav light fuse would blow
out when we made overnight passages. He ran a new wire and we will find out later if this
resolves the issue. We certainly hope so, because Sam would like to stop looking for the
problem. And on the 4th day – after we put everything back into the lazarette and pulled
out of the marina under power and dropped the hook – Sam rested.
Most of you have probably heard the definition of cruising, “working on your boat in exotic
places.” Sometimes that is truer than others. But life is good. We’re having a good and
warm time. The new Simrad Robertson below-deck autopilot works very well and it is
stronger than the old belt-to-wheel Autohelm. The solar panels keep the batteries
charged up, the watermaker running and Susie’s cokes in the refrigerator cold. We have
enough water to shower every day on the boat. We have shade over most of the boat.
And there are enough little things to fix that Sam will never be bored.
Our plans for the summer have changed.
Hunter, Susie’s grandson, will still be spending the month of June with us in the Sea of
Cortez. We had previously planned to take the boat back to Marina Mazatlan mid-July and
leave it there for the summer, while we traveled inland to higher elevations and somewhat
cooler climates. But being true cruisers, we are flexible and plans are subject to change.
Susie met someone playing Bridge who needed a house-sitter here in La Paz area for the
summer and we decided to take the opportunity. So we will investigate leaving the boat in
Marina Costa Baja (the safest harbor in La Paz if there is a hurricane) and spending our
time in a country palapa-style home located in El Sargento (about 30 minutes drive from
La Paz and on the Ceralvo Channel) enjoying air-conditioning, high speed internet access,
Canadian sattelite television and the use of a car. Our first summer in La Paz!
Sea of Cortez Race Week has been re-instituted and will start April 1.
On March 31st in the afternoon there was a meeting in the outdoor patio at Ciao Molino in
La Paz with Richard Spindler of Latitude 38 and the crew of several boats participating in
Race Week. We were there – Susie playing Mexican Train, also in the patio, and Sam
checking email inside. Susie mentioned to Sam that Richard was outside if he wanted to
say hello. Sam went out to talk with Richard while Susie checked email, and 10 minutes
later he came back inside with two tee-shirts and the announcement that he had signed up
to participate. So we radioed and/or telephoned the stainless steel man, the carpenter
and the canvas worker and put them off a week; decided to put off renewing our FM3’s
because they aren’t really due until April 23rd; and put away the dinghy in preparation to
“race” to Caleta Partida the next day. Look at next month’s update for a report of that
event!
| Photos for March 2008 |