Log Book
December 2007   
  
December 2007  
La Paz.  December 2 we attended the Subasta (auction) fund raiser for local community
charities, including scholarships.  Lots of nice painted pottery, handmade items, fresh
German sausage, used clothing and boat stuff.  Nothing we needed, however, so we just
looked.  Finally left the docks on December 5 to enjoy the islands around La Paz.

Isla Gallo.  This nice anchorage is located at Espiritu Santo, behind a large rock named
“the hen.”  There is another larger rock close by named “the rooster.”  Our friends Cindy
and Mike on Airwego were anchored here with us and we joined them for dessert one
evening.  We spent two calm days on the hook, December 5 and 6.  

Caleta Partida.  This anchorage is actually the cove between Espiritu Santo and Partida,
with a shallow spit of sand at one end.  We arrived December 7 and put the sail rig on the
Walker Bay; Sam and Mike sailed around the anchorage visiting other boats.  The next
day Sam and Susie sailed over to the shallows and looked around, then joined friends
from Myah (a new Nordhaven power boat) on Airwego for evening snacks and drinks.  We
spent two calm days here.

Ensenada Grande and Los Islotes.  Hoping for a continuation of the calm weather (and
unable to clearly receive any weather forecasts on the SSB from Summer Passage), on
December 9 we and Airwego motored over to Ensenada Grande, another anchorage on
Partida.  While Airwego set their anchor, Susie puttered around on Catch The Wind and
Sam rowed over to pick up Mike and Cindy.  Then we “boat pooled” up to Los Islotes to
look at the sea lions and the arches.  It was too cold to brave the water or the potential
encounter with a sea lion, so we just looked and took pictures.  Lunch was huevos
rancheros en route back to Ensenada Grande, where we set our anchor.  Just as Sam
started rowing back to the boat (after dropping off Mike and Cindy) it began to rain.  No
wind, just cold.  The rain continued during the night and the next day December 10 it
began to blow – a west wind, which blew directly into the anchorage.  There was no
protection from wind, but more distressing, no protection from building swells.  We ran the
engine to build the batteries back up (without sun we can not generate solar power) and
spent the first half of the day relaxing, reading, Sudoku puzzling, playing backgammon.  
About noon Sam let our more chain because we seemed to be dragging our anchor with
all the pitching in the swells.  By 2:30 PM we were still dragging, towards the steep cliffs;
the boat was pitching so much in the big swell that occasionally the bow was buried in
water and when it came back up it would pull against the chain and the anchor.  Sam then
decided it would be safer at sea than where we were, so we pulled anchor.  It was too
windy to put the dinghy on the foredeck, so we towed it behind.  Once out of the
anchorage, we headed back towards La Paz, powering against 20-plus knot winds.  The
swells pushed the bow of the dinghy (which we usually tow beside the boat, not behind, but
with the wind and swells we had to tow it behind and it was tied on a short line) up over the
wind vane and when it came back down, it hit the wind vane paddle.  Now we have a large
L-shaped tear in the inflatable tube.  We did not know where we were going to go for the
night, but as we passed Caleta Partida (where we had been a few days before) we were
able to hail Sugata on the radio and they reported conditions in that anchorage were
relatively calm and there was plenty of room for another boat.  We turned immediately and
headed in, and thankfully set the hook with mild winds and very little swell, near the
shallows.  It was a very calm night and we rested safely and well.

Back to La Paz.  December 11 the seas and winds were calm in the morning, so we
headed back to La Paz.  We got a slip in Marina Palmira, where we had never stayed
before.  It was time for a few chores before going to Mazatlan.  We assembled the new
boarding step, bought (but did not install) a new galley faucet, and did some laundry.  
Isabelle from Sunbreak came over and went up the mast in the bosun chair to remove
some broken bungee cord from the ends of the first spreader (left over from the days
when we used bungee to hold the lazy jacks away from the mast).  We pulled the inflatable
tubes off the dinghy, but were unable to get them repaired, so we rolled them up and
stowed them to hopefully get repairs made in Mazatlan.  The music school concert was
very enjoyable and we got to visit with Franck, who plays the French horn in the
symphony, his mother Betsy (from Ocean Eyes), and Mike (from Amazing Grace).  We
provisioned and attended a pot luck on the docks and got ready to depart Monday.

Passage to Mazatlan.  December 17 Sam got up early in the morning to go with the boat
Unicorn for his Dockwise loading.  For those of you who already know what this is, you can
skip the following explanation.  Dockwise is a boat transport service; sailboats and power
boats motor directly into a dry dock and are secured in place with lines.  When all the
boats are loaded, divers go down beneath the boats and weld supports for each boat.  
Then the dry dock is raised and all the boats on the transport look like they are sitting on
blocks in a boat yard.  The Dockwise service is international and can be expensive, but
sometimes it is the more cost effective way (considering fuel, wear and tear and maybe a
delivery skipper) to take a boat to another port over a long distance.  Sam wanted to see
how this was done, so he went for the experience.  He got to our boat around 11 AM, we
turned in our keys and left the dock about noon.  As we headed towards the San Lorenzo
channel, we saw a familiar dark green boat with tan bark sails going towards La Paz; we
thought it was our friends Bardan and indeed it was!  We had not seen them since Mag
Bay, so we visited for a while on the radio.  It was a good passage to Mazatlan with
absolutely wonderful weather for sailing.  We were able to sail most of the way, but
decided to drop the main when Sam fortunately discovered that the gooseneck was
broken (where the boom fastens to the mast).  For a while we sailed with just the jib, but
decided to motor as the wind decreased the closer we got to the mainland.  We knew we
were leaking oil from the engine, but we put lots of diapers (oil absorbent cloths) in the
engine pan and went for it, arriving outside the channel entrance just as we planned about
8 AM on the morning of December 19 after about 34 hours at sea.  We tied up at Marina
Mazatlan about 10:00 AM Wednesday morning, Dock 9, Space 7.

Mazatlan.  The day we arrived in Mazatlan, December 19, we were successful in finding
someone to repair the inflatable tubes for our dinghy.  We also were able to discuss our
engine oil leak problem with Bob Buchanan of Total Yacht Works.  On the passage from
La Paz to Mazatlan we lost (into the diapers under the engine) 3 quarts of oil.  And this
after we spent a lot of money and time in March and again in August while we were in San
Diego to get this very problem fixed.  Given the continuing leaks and the cost of labor to
remove, disassemble and reassemble our present Perkins 4108, we were fortunate to find
another engine that was taken off the sailing vessel Hooligan (because they wanted a
brand new Yanmar before their planned circumnavigation they were offering their previous
non-oil-leaking Perkins 4108 for a good price).  The cost to exchange the engines will cost
less than fixing what we have and we will end up with some more spare parts in the
process (alternator, water pump, etc).  

So now we have a progression of repairs to be done in certain order.  Sam has removed
the sail; we folded it and marked it and noted some areas for repair, then put it in a sail
bag on top of the boat to be worked on later.  Sam then removed the boom; we tied it on
the side of the boat for now.  He removed the gooseneck and took it to Total Yacht Works,
who will have a new gooseneck made of stainless steel.  The broken gooseneck was made
of cast aluminum and this is the second time it broke in just about the same place in two
years.  While that is being done, Sam disconnected and removed the solar panels on top
of the dodger, and then Sam or Bob will remove the entire dodger assembly (canvas and
stainless steel framework) so the engines can be exchanged through the hatch opening
which is underneath the dodger.  When the gooseneck is fixed, the boom can be re-
attached to the mast.  Then the mechanic will use the boom and the halyard to lift the old
engine out and put the new (to us) engine in.  When the engine installation is completed,
the dodger and then the solar panels can be put back in place.  After the sail is repaired, it
will have to be put back on the boom.  In addition to all that, we hope to have some canvas
made while we are in Mazatlan – drop-downs shades on the bimini, a windlass cover, sail
cover modifications, etc.  All this work will be done – hopefully – while we do some inland
travel (more about that at the end).

The Friday before Christmas we saw a wonderful performance by the Salvation Army
Orphanage – singing and traditional Mexican dances by children aged 3 to 18.  Be sure to
look at the pictures of this!  On Sunday we enjoyed breakfast at La Marina Restaurant with
Wayne and Trish (their boat Sentisco is here in the marina but they have a town home not
far away) and some of their family who came for the holidays.  We had a wonderful
Christmas Eve dinner at La Marina with friends Mike and Cindy from Airwego – turkey and
all the trimmings, excellent quality.  Christmas we relaxed in the morning, then Sam started
work on the fresh water galley leak in the afternoon.  That project was interrupted for lack
of appropriate parts (on a day all the stores were closed), which meant no running fresh
water in the boat, so dishes were done outside at the faucet on top of the dock box.  The
day after Christmas he got a ride to Home Depot and various plomerias and ferretarias
(plumbing supply houses and hardware stores) with Jerry and Sally of Aquarious, and
purchased the missing parts.  So Susie got her new galley faucet that afternoon, along
with a roasted chicken Sam brought back for dinner.  

New friends Gerry and Johnny from Lady Geraldine came over for the famous pancakes
one morning, as did old friends Eva and Juan Spampanato from Ciao (members at
Richmond Yacht Club) another morning.  Friends Tony and Shannon from Sweetie came
by one day for a visit and a bowl of soup.  Susie got to play Mexican Train on Tuesdays
and Thursdays, and Baja Rummy some afternoons on other days.  The weather was cold
for this time of year in Mazatlan (according to those who have lived here on their boats for
many years) so we had to dig out the little electric room heaters and run them during the
nights and put three blankets on the bed.  We had some nights when the temp dropped
down below 50, which for this region (and these thin-blooded cruisers) is uncomfortable,
but most of the days here have been in the 70’s or even 80’s sometimes.

The last few days of the year will be spent getting the boat ready for the engine project
and ourselves ready to travel inland from Mazatlan to Maricopa, Arizona.  The plan is to
leave our boat here in Marina Mazatlan on January 2 and travel to Los Mochis and then on
to El Fuerte by bus.  Then we plan a tour of Copper Canyon via the Chihuahua-Pacific
Train.  This canyon (really 4 connected canyons) is sometimes called the Grand Canyon
of Mexico and the train that was built to run through it is supposed to be one of the most
fantastic excursions in the world – numerous bridges, tunnels and switchbacks, all with
wonderful views.  From Chihuahua we will take the bus and/or Amtrak to Maricopa,
Arizona, where Susie’s parents live.  Her mother is having a 2nd knee replacement surgery
and we will be there to help out.  Then, assuming all goes well with the surgery, we will
return to Mazatlan the first week of February in time for Carnaval.

2007 in Summary.  In January we (and the boat) were still in San Francisco Bay.  We
sailed back down the Baja Peninsula in February and spent March in La Paz.  April
through June we traveled up into the fabulous Sea of Cortez, stopping at many beautiful
anchorages along the way and terminating our north passage at Bahia de los Angeles.  
We returned to La Paz for provisions and crew and departed July 15 for California, an
uneventful passage.  In August Susie’s grandson Hunter joined us in San Diego and we
harbor-hopped up to Ventura.  September included bottom paint and a new 3-blade prop
at Ventura Boat Yard for Catch The Wind and a road trip to Sacramento for Sam and
Susie and Hunter, with stops along the way to visit friends.  October we prepared for
Mexico in San Diego, where we met many of the 2007 Baja Ha Ha participants and got a
new below-decks auto pilot installed.  In November we headed south – just Sam and Susie
without crew – and had a wonderful passage to arrive in La Paz in time for Thanksgiving
Dinner with our fellow cruisers.  December we have enjoyed in Mazatlan.

Projection for 2008.  When we get back to the boat in Mazatlan in February, we will see
what happens.  Our only plans after that are to continue enjoying our lives together!
Photos for
December 2007
TIME WASTER
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