Log Book
July 2007
July 2007
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| July 2007 |
Passage La Paz to Cabo. The first several days of July in La Paz were spent getting
ready for our trip back to Southern California waters. We were very fortunate to discover
that Victor, the local marine electronics wizard, had spare parts for our dead auto pilot. He
told us that it would be the last time he could fix it, however, since we got the last motor he
had. John Paul Watts flew in on July 10 and we departed the afternoon of July 11 for
Cabo, non-stop to Cabo. The autopilot performed admirably. We got fuel in Cabo on July
13 and anchored next to the hotels, amid parasailers, jet skis and banana boats. After
enjoying a cool dip in the water, we went ashore in a water taxi (to avoid having to unload
our dinghy) to meet Ken Kuras, our 2nd crew member. We had a nice dinner ashore at
Senor Greenberg’s – the best Jewish style deli in Mexico – and a comfortable evening
sleeping on the boat. On July 14, we departed Cabo and went around Lands End to start
up the outside coast of the Baja Peninsula.
Passage – Cabo to Bahia Magdalena. We had up to 25 knots of wind, primarily from
the north, which is the common wind pattern for this time of the year on the Pacific side of
the Baja. Sam chose to sail about 75% of the way from Cabo to Mag Bay, tacking away
from land at night and towards land during daylight hours. We had some lumpy water, but
nothing too bad, but Ken and Susie experienced some mild stomach discomfort. It was a
good decision to pull into Bahia Magdalena and stay for a few days, hoping that the winds
would die down.
Mag Bay. We dropped the anchor inside Mag Bay at Man o War cove – in front of the
village of Puerto Bahia Magdalena – on July 16 in the morning. We put the dinghy in the
water and rowed ashore. John-Paul and Ken hiked across the sand dunes to the Pacific
side, Bahia Santa Maria. The proprietor of the only restaurant on shore at this small
village – Jose – remembered us from when we were there in March. That night when we
walked up to eat at the restaurant, he came around the corner with his white fishing boots
on and his floppy hat, holding a fresh whole halibut by the gills and asked if that was what
we would like for dinner. We said sure, and while we enjoyed our cold drinks, he went
down to the beach to clean and filet the fish; he brought the filets back to the kitchen in his
house – the front porch of which is the restaurant – and his wife Christina cooked the fish.
Then we were served both breaded Halibut and grilled halibut, with refried beans and
Momma’s homemade flour tortillas – delicious. It doesn’t get any fresher than this. We
met Gloria on the beach, an 11 year old girl who gave us some beautiful abalone shells
and helped us push out our dinghy when we left. The next day Susie took her beading kit
ashore and it was not long before she was surrounded by a large group of females – from
5 years old up to grandmas in age – making bracelets and necklaces and earrings. This
was a great time and Susie really got to know a lot of the women in the village. The next
day, Gloria stood on the beach most of the morning yelling Susie’s name and motioning for
her to come ashore again. So in the afternoon Susie went back again to finish up the
projects started the previous day and by the end of the day all the beads in the box were
used up and most of the females were sporting their new finery. Ken and John Paul did
some more hiking and sailed the dinghy in the bay. We had fish machaca at Jose’s
restaurant our last evening – another great meal – and planned to leave the next
morning. It was a restful time here in Mag Bay.
Passage – Mag Bay to Turtle Bay. We left the morning of July 19, with a good forecast
for light winds from Don on the Amigo Net, and started back up the coast. We were able to
sail some of the way, but primarily motoring. The waters were not as lumpy as on the
Cabo-Mag part of the trip and it was easier to make headway and prepare meals
underway. Ken and Susie played some killer backgammon and John Paul taught
everyone how to play cribbage.
Turtle Bay. The morning of July 21 we dropped anchor in Turtle Bay, and made
arrangements for fuel to be brought out, since we anticipated continued motoring on
towards San Diego. Susie fixed huevos ranchero while we waited for the fuel process to
be completed. Then we put the dinghy in the water and went ashore to find an internet
café. Everyone got their computer fix and we picked up some fresh tomatoes and
avocado at the store. This was a short stay, because the weather window was good to
continue north with light winds. We left the evening the same day we arrived.
Passage – Turtle Bay to San Diego. This year we decided not to stop in Ensenada and
go through the headache of dealing with the immigration officer there for an official check
out. We just kept on trucking. More killer backgammon for Ken and Susie, and cribbage
too. Some days were cloudy, some nights were cool, but overall it was an easy finale to
San Diego. Primarily it was boring, just running the autopilot and motoring. The last day
of this leg of the passage, we spotted schools of dolphin at least 3 different times, playing
around the bow and jumping up and flipping out of the water sometimes. And one whale
was spotted. On Tuesday evening, July 24, we arrived at the San Diego Harbor Police
customs dock. We phoned immigration for our check in inspection and clearance and 2
hours later they had not arrived, so we called back and started dinner on the boat. When
we were able to give them the number from our Homeland Security decal they did a
telephone check in for us and we just stayed at the customs dock all night for a good
restful sleep. On Wednesday morning we walked over to the hotel for breakfast in their
restaurant, after moving the boat to a slip at the public docks. John Paul and Ken washed
down the boat completely while Susie and Sam ferried 15 loads of laundry over to the
dinghy dock at San Diego Yacht Club, for easier access to the local laundromat. That
took most of the day. We took advantage of the pool and hot tub and then dinner at San
Diego Yacht Club – the Wednesday night BBQ following the evening’s beer can races.
Ken left the boat that evening and John Paul the next morning, to enjoy some of the local
scenery in San Diego and visit friends. It was good to have John Paul and Ken for crew
this year – last year Sam and Susie made the passage from Cabo to San Diego alone –
and we will miss having them around the boat.
San Diego. As usual after several months of brutal hot sun in Mexico and an 800 mile
passage, there are boat projects to be completed. We won’t bore you with all the details.
Of course we shopped at the various chandleries and went to West Marine to spend our
$90 in reward certificates – got Susie some new Crocs in lovely sea foam green and little
sailboat jibitz to put in the holes. And Sam FINALLY dumped his teva-type sandals, as well
as his Keens, because his right heel was falling out of the open back when he walked. We
found at West Marine some shoes styled like Keens, but without the toe bar (which hit Sam’
s foot in the wrong pace with the Keens), Sperry with closed toes and closed heels, and he
says they are more comfortable for walking than the Keens. On July 29th we celebrated
Susie’s 55th birthday at Pizza Nova. We are staying at the San Diego Harbor Police public
docks through August 3th and using the dinghy to get closer to the places we do business
with on Shelter Island, tying the boat up at San Diego Yacht Club, and using their pool and
showers and dining in their restaurant. As Sam says, after months of cruising in the Sea
of Cortez, in San Diego we live like kings! Hunter – Susie’s grandson who is soon to be 6
years old – arrived on July 31st to spend August cruising around with us here in Southern
California. More about that next month!
| Photos for July 2007 |